Alan's arthropods & trips

• About: Large Tarantula with a red/purple star on the carapace, best seen on adult males.

When disturbed or in danger they raise there abdomen to kick hairs or run. In nature they dig holes.

• Origin: Topical rainforests of Columbia, Ecuador, Venezuela, Peru and Panama.
• Classification: New World
• Burrower/Terrestrial/Arboreal: Terrestrial.
• Rate of Growth: Fast.
• Adult Size: 18cm-22cm

• Housing:

Spiderlings: Small jars, deli cups, small plastic Tupperware containers, vials can be used for very small specimens. Once the spiderling 's leg span reaches half the diameter of the enclosure, it is time to move it to a larger container. Be sure to make air holes in the container.

Juveniles: Smaller Critter Keepers or other smaller pre-made plastic enclosures, 10 liter aquariums.

Adults: Larger Critter Keeper, other pre-made plastic enclosure, up to 35 liter aquariums, but pay atension: height issues emerge.

NOTE: Try and avoid allowing the spider to fall more than 1.5 times it 's body length should it climb to the top of the enclosure.

NOTE: Avoid woven mesh cage tops as the tarantula's claws can get caught in the mesh.

• Temperament:

Skittish and nervous. Will kick hair very easy.

• Humidity:

Moderate high 70% - 80%. Plastic or sandwich wrap can be put on 80% of the top of the cage to raise humidity levels and help maintain them.
To keep humidity up in dry conditions, the sides of the cage can be lightly misted (DO NOT mist the spider directly) to maintain humidity.

• Temperature:

Moderate 24-28 degrees (at night 19-23 degrees), fluctuations are tolerated as long as temperatures return too normal shortly. (Room temperature should be fine ~22 degrees during day).

• Feeding/Drinking:

Spiderlings: Pinhead crickets or baby cockroaches, cut up portions of larger crickets. The substrate can be dampened, or small amounts of water dribbled down the side of the enclosure for moisture is all that is needed because spiderlings get most of their fluids from their food.

Juveniles: Staple diet of good sized crickets or cockroaches. A shallow, wide water dish is a necessity and should be kept full of fresh water at all times and should not be so large as to pose a risk to the tarantula.

Adults: Staple diet of large sized crickets, cockroaches, grasshoppers or the occasional pinkie mouse for variety. A shallow, wide water dish is a necessity and should be kept full of fresh water at all times.

NOTE: Try and acquire all food items from pet stores as to avoid the possibility of pesticide-infected food, which can kill your tarantula.

NOTE: If the tarantula has not accepted it's food item in 24 hours time, remove it and try again later.

• Substrate:

Spiderlings: 2-5 cm of peat moss, potting soil, or a mixture of the two.

Juveniles: 4-6 cm of peat moss, potting soil, a mixture of the two, and you can add some vermiculite to the substrate to help keep humidity up.

Adults: 5-8 cm of peat moss, potting soil, a mixture of the two, and you can add some vermiculite to the substrate to help keep humidity up.

NOTE: Be sure that anything you buy to use as a substrate has no additives, fertilizers, or pesticides in them, as they can be harmful to your tarantula.

• Suggested Cage Furnishings:

Cork bark, half buried flowerpot laid lengthwise, half of a coconut shell, or fake plastic or silk plants. All tarantulas should be given something to hide in or under so they feel secure.

NOTE: Cedar is especially poisonous to all invertebrates and should never be used in a tarantula's enclosure.

NOTE: Do not use anything sharp or jagged such as cactus that could potentially harm your tarantula.