Alan's arthropods & trips

• About: These scorpions are also called emperor scorpion. These are a non-aggressive species that seem reluctant to sting (there venom is generally not harmful to humans), instead they will use there powerful claws for attacking or hunting. They are black in colouration, although more brownish coloured specimens my occur. Only in adults, the telson has a brown-red colour. They are a communal type of scorpion, so several similarly sized specimens can be maintained in a communal set-up when given enough floor space, lots of hiding spaces and provided with enough food. They are easy to sex: the operculum (the lid that covers the reproductive organs) of the male is oval while the female has a more heart-shaped operculum (another difference may be seen when looking at the pectines: males have larger pectines with 14 to 17 teeth, while females have 14 to 16 teeth). During the mating process the male and female will lock pincers and walk back and forth, which can vary in time from minutes to days. Eventually the male will deposit a spermatophore which will be taken up by the female.
• Origin: Hot, humid tropical forests and savannah of Guinea, Liberia, Sierra Leone, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Benin, Togo and Nigeria.
• Rate of Growth: Slow. Males and females mature in 6-7 moults within 14-22 months (in captivity).
• Adult Size: 15-18 cm, although 20 cm is possible.
• Life span: Up to 8 years (in captivity).

• Housing:

Provide enough ventilation (double) or airflow to prevent forming of mold because of the relative high humidity that is needed with this species.
Dimensions for an enclosure housing a single specimen: 30 x 30 x 30cm (minimum sizes).
Dimensions for an enclosure housing 2 to 3 specimens: 50 x 30 x 30cm (minimum sizes).
Dimensions for an enclosure housing up to 6 specimens: 100 x 30 x 30cm (minimum sizes).
Floor space is more important than height although they will climb if given the opportunity.

NOTE: Avoid woven mesh cage tops as the scorpion's claws can get caught in the mesh.

• Temperament:

Overall calm and docile (this may be different with pregnant females).

• Humidity:

Relatively high: around 80% (minimum 60%). This can be achieved by misting and flooding the substrate multiple times a week (depending on the ventilation of the enclosure).
Plastic or sandwich wrap can be put on 80% of the top of the cage to raise humidity levels and help maintain them.
A moist towel can also be placed over a portion of the top of the cage to keep humidity up in dry conditions. Do not use this as a permanent solution as this takes down proper ventilation. DO NOT mist the scorpion directly.

• Temperature:

Warm: 22°C (night) to 30°C (day). Although I successfully got offspring from a female kept at a constant temperature of 25°C.

• Feeding:

Scorplings will feed on small crickets and cockroaches. Juveniles and adults will take large sized crickets, cockroaches, and grasshoppers. Adults can be given the occasional pinkie mouse for variety. A shallow, wide water dish is a necessity and should be kept full of fresh water at all times.

NOTE: Try and acquire all food items from pet stores as to avoid the possibility of pesticide-infected food, which can kill your scorpion.

NOTE: If the scorpion has not accepted it's food item in 24 hours time, remove it and try again later.

• Substrate:

From scorplings to adults, 10 to 15cm of peat moss or potting soil is advised. They like to dig and make burrows.

NOTE: Be sure that anything you buy to use as a substrate has no additives, fertilizers, or pesticides in them, as they can be harmful to your scorpion.

• Suggested Cage Furnishings:

P. imperator should be given lots of climbing surfaces and many hiding areas (depending on the size of the scorplings). This can be done using cork bark, flat stones, broken ceramic flower pots and pieces of dry wood or logs.
Scorpions will move the cage decorations as part of reorganizing their environment, this isn't a sign these decorations should be removed.