Alan's arthropods & trips

• About: Colorful, metallic blue legs, a blue-green carapace, and a vibrantly orange abdomen. Kind of hardy species. Need very less humidity.
• Origin: Deserts of Venezuela.
• Classification: New World
• Burrower/Terrestrial/Arboreal: Terrestrial, although sometimes it looks like it is an arboreal cause of it webs and climbing.
• Rate of Growth: Medium
• Adult Size: 12cm

• Housing:

Spiderlings: Small jars, deli cups, small plastic Tupperware containers, vials can be used for very small specimens. Once the spiderling 's leg span reaches half the diameter of the enclosure, it is time to move it to a larger container. Be sure to make air holes in the container.

Juveniles: Smaller Critter Keepers or other smaller pre-made plastic enclosures, 4-9 liter aquariums. They can have more height then the usual terrestrial T.

Adults: Larger Critter Keeper, other pre-made plastic enclosure, or 20 liter aquariums, much larger and height issues emerge. Many cages can be purchased that have more floor space than height such as a Desert Den or an appropriate sized Rubbermaid or Tupperware container. They can have more height then the usual terrestrial T.

NOTE: Avoid woven mesh cage tops as the tarantula's claws can get caught in the mesh.

• Temperament:

Fairly docile and calm, but can be extremely fast and nervious.

• Humidity:

Low 50% - 60%.

• Temperature:

Moderate 20-28 degrees, fluctuations are tolerated as long as temperatures return too normal shortly. (Room temperature should be fine ~22 degrees during day).

• Feeding/Drinking:

Spiderlings: Pinhead crickets or baby cockroaches, cut up portions of larger crickets. The substrate can be dampened, or small amounts of water dribbled down the side of the enclosure for moisture is all that is needed because spiderlings get most of their fluids from their food.

Juveniles: Staple diet of small-medium sized crickets or cockroaches, nothing larger than the tarantula's abdomen. A shallow, wide water dish is a necessity and should be kept full of fresh water at all times and should not be so large as to pose a risk to the tarantula.

Adults: Staple diet of large sized crickets, cockroaches, grasshoppers or the occasional pinkie mouse for variety. A shallow, wide water dish is a necessity and should be kept full of fresh water at all times.

NOTE: Try and acquire all food items from pet stores as to avoid the possibility of pesticide-infected food, which can kill your tarantula.

NOTE: If the tarantula has not accepted it's food item in 24 hours time, remove it and try again later.

• Substrate:

Spiderlings: 2 cm of peat moss, potting soil, or a mixture of the two.

Juveniles: 3 cm of peat moss, potting soil, a mixture of the two.

Adults: 4 cm of peat moss, potting soil, a mixture of the two.

NOTE: Be sure that anything you buy to use as a substrate has no additives, fertilizers, or pesticides in them, as they can be harmful to your tarantula.

• Suggested Cage Furnishings:

Cork bark, half buried flowerpot laid lengthwise, half of a coconut shell, or fake plastic or silk plants. All tarantulas should be given something to hide in or under so they feel secure.

NOTE: Cedar is especially poisonous to all invertebrates and should never be used in a tarantula's enclosure.

NOTE: Do not use anything sharp or jagged such as cactus that could potentially harm your tarantula.