Alan's arthropods & trips

• About: Very colorful, sought after, jumpy, but fairly docile. They tend to be somewhat less hardier than other Avicularia and will thrive in slightly lower humidity (75%?). They are considered non-defensive, but are quite fast.
• Origin: Martinique and Guadeloupe
• Classification: New World
• Burrower/Terrestrial/Arboreal: They are an arboreal species.
• Rate of Growth: Fast growing. Females live up to only 12 to 15 years.
• Adult Size: 12cm - 14cm

• Housing:

Spiderlings: Small jars, deli cups, small plastic Tupperware containers, vials can be used for very small specimens. Once the spiderling 's leg span reaches half the diameter of the enclosure, it is time to move it to a larger container. Be sure to make air holes in the container.

Juveniles: Smaller Critter Keepers or other smaller pre-made plastic enclosures, 4-9 liter aquariums.

Adults: Larger Critter Keeper, other pre-made plastic enclosure, or 20 liter aquariums. These are an arboreal species so height is more important then floor space.

NOTE: Avoid woven mesh cage tops as the tarantula's claws can get caught in the mesh.

• Temperament:

Docile and calm, but jumpy and fast.

• Humidity:

Moderate - High: 70% - 80%. Plastic or sandwich wrap can be put on 80% of the top of the cage to raise humidity levels and help maintain them.
A moist towel can also be placed over a portion of the top of the cage to keep humidity up in dry conditions, or the sides of the cage (or web) can be lightly misted (DO NOT mist the spider directly) to maintain humidity.

• Temperature :

Moderate 21-28 degrees, fluctuations are tolerated as long as temperatures return too normal shortly. (Room temperature should be fine ~22 degrees during day).

• Feeding/Drinking:

Spiderlings: Pinhead crickets or baby cockroaches. The substrate can be dampened, or small amounts of water dribbled down the side of the enclosure for moisture is all that is needed because spiderlings get most of their fluids from their food.

Juveniles: Staple diet of small-medium sized crickets or cockroaches, nothing larger than the tarantula's abdomen. A shallow, wide water dish is a necessity and should be kept full of fresh water at all times and should not be so large as to pose a risk to the tarantula.

Adults: Staple diet of large sized crickets, cockroaches or grasshoppers. A shallow, wide water dish is a necessity and should be kept full of fresh water at all times.

NOTE: Try and acquire all food items from pet stores as to avoid the possibility of pesticide-infected food, which can kill your tarantula.

NOTE: If the tarantula has not accepted it's food item in 24 hours time, remove it and try again later.

• Substrate:

Spiderlings: 2 cm of peat moss, potting soil, or a mixture of the two.

Juveniles: 3-5 cm of peat moss, potting soil, a mixture of the two, and you can add some vermiculite to the substrate to help keep humidity up.

Adults: 4-6 cm of peat moss, potting soil, a mixture of the two, and you can add some vermiculite to the substrate to help keep humidity up.

NOTE: Be sure that anything you buy to use as a substrate has no additives, fertilizers, or pesticides in them, as they can be harmful to your tarantula.

• Suggested Cage Furnishings:

No hide is nessecary. A piece of cork bark to clime and the build there web.

NOTE: Cedar is especially poisonous to all invertebrates and should never be used in a tarantula's enclosure.

NOTE: Do not use anything sharp or jagged such as cactus that could potentially harm your tarantula.